Claire Waight Keller’s third couture collection for maison Givenchy presented yesterday at Musée d’Art modern de la Ville de Paris kept our besotted hearts beating fast. Entitled “Bleached Canvas”, we have been graced with an array of monochrome and delicate color pops. The lace, the intricate embroidery, the organza, voluminous sleeves, oversized bows, the feathers— such a haute delight! The air of fairytale is inspired, yet most of the collection is very much wearable, which is always a bonus when it comes to couture. From polished latex to crusty lace and crazy fringing, the textures and vibrant colors, the collection gives away desire of Waight Keller to design something utterly new. The designer dipped looks in straight-up primary paint colors with stripped back gowns with hip volumes and trembling lace and tulle textures. The contemporary collection with elements of timeless glamour possesses both sheerness and shine, saturation and monochrome simplicity. “I tried to take the most modern approach possible with everything,” said designer after the show.
Rigor and aesthetic formalism are the basis of this collection. Sculpted, architectural silhouettes give new meaning to couture. Balancing between the past and the future, Waight Keller presented the austere romanticism that embodies the golden age of the famed French maison. Today’s Audrey Hepburn wears garments that are seemingly borrowed from men’s wardrobe. Nevertheless, they are charmingly feminine. From the origami effect plissé top to the all-fringe look, this collection does not lack outstanding ideas. The second skin latex trousers serve as a stand out piece, while certain pieces such as the minimalist evening gown embroidered with sparkling stones resemble aesthetic of the late Hubert de Givenchy. Décolletage is reshaped in a vertiginous manner, aesthetic canons are rethought, imagination is a prerogative. It could be that we are witnessing the birth of Waight Keller’s personal vision, one that is slightly moving away from the legacy of the famed couturier.
Photo credit: Vogue