By choosing unusual combinations of color, decoration and texture, Elsa Schiaparelli was playing with contradictions and opposites in her design. Like many modern artists, Schiaparelli built upon art from the past, as well as reacting against it. It was her bold, somewhat whimsical approach to fashion, which allowed her to differentiate herself from other designers of her time. Described once by Coco Chanel as “that Italian artist who makes clothes”, Schiaparelli built upon fashion trends that had been developing since the late 1800’s, branding them with unique sensibility. Today, her revolutionary approach to fashion design continues to influence the fashion world, and it is absolutely fascinating to see Bertrand Guyon’s interpretation of Schiaparelli’s idea of life and fashion. It seems that Guyon utterly understands Schiaparelli’s unconditional love for all things unusual, flowers and nature en générale.
Inspired by the idea of Schiaparelli’s magical childhood memories, today at the Opéra Garnier, he presented an eclectic, vibrant and colorful collection with a child’s “sense of optimism, lightness and freshness”. A floral aesthetic, one that especially embodies Schiaparelli’s post-war designs, is both avant garde and timeless. Guyon presented a new silhouette— rounded hips, small waist, soft shoulders, stand-away pockets. Hourglass dresses somehow perfectly match cowboy boots, giving the entire collection a Shocking! feel of old times. The collection does not lack sparkling and boldly decorated pieces, resembling Schiaparelli’s Zodiac collection from Winter 1938/39 which is considered to be her most imaginative collection. Pieces decorated with stars, moon and sun, and horoscope signs seem to foretell the future. A standout piece— mini globe dress of purple and red feathers, seemed to blossom on the runway, alongside elegant evening dresses made out structured floral brocade and light organza. In the spirit of haute, certain pieces were impeccably hand embroidered in sequins and pearls. As the final touch, nine-months pregnant English model Erin O’Connor walked down the runway in a breathtaking gown, designed in slopes of of orange and pink tulle leaving the audience in complete awe.
Photo credit: Vogue