Art meets fashion at Paris Couture Week. Giambattista Valli got the pulses racing with some of our favorite couture things— ruffles and florals, flurry of feathers, maximalism and volume. Valli’s innate grasp of conscious consumerism translates to his collections. For Fall 2018 couture collection he expanded on his signature frothy princess silhouette, but only slightly, demonstrating a clear emotional ID as a designer and as a sense of his clients’ profiles. Once again, the designer did not fail to impress with theatrical creations. He looked to youth for inspiration and paid homage to the new generation of haute couture clientele— women who come from all over the world and have a new attitude for wearing couture. The repertoire included bows, gigantic volumes and ruffles, micro dresses and red carpet-worthy looks. One can always count on Valli to bring a does of high drama to Paris.
With more than 400 yards of fabric per gown, Valli knows a thing or two about extravagance and exaggeration. However, as an ode to youth, the collection offers clean looks such as the opening one, a black bow-tie bandeau top and high-waisted trousers. “There is a very strong sense of youth in this haute couture. Why? Because we have a lot of new generations of young girls coming and buying haute couture from all over the world, so that’s very nice and it’s very inspiring, and they have a different attitude to wearing it,” the designer explained backstage. “They have that kind of sense to wear haute couture like they are wearing jeans and a T-shirt. They don’t have any complex. There is a little bit of ghetto girls — luxury ghetto girls, whatever you want to call it — but it’s nice to have this kind of coolness,” Valli added.
In order to satisfy this new wave of clients, the designer introduced some unusual couture options, such as the zip-front black duchess satin jumpsuit, a trouser suit and an embroidered trench coat, all paired with luxurious Chopard diamond necklaces. Using bouclé tweed, he re-designed a classic cocktail dress, offering a much more comfortable version— Giamba style. According to the designer, aside from youth, he drew inspiration from the texture of a Francis Picabia painting. Hence the feathery shoes, oversized bows, faux fur, silk faille and chiffon, chantilly lace and, naturally, layers and layers of signature tulle.
Photo credit: Vogue, The Impression