There were no extravagant adornments. Dior Fall 2018 haute couture collection was purely about craftsmanship and the helm of Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s weighty legacy. “Couture is about something hidden”, stated Chiuri. “If you go to the atelier, you want to take care of yourself and know that someone will take care of you. We have this big opportunity to work with a different definition of time.Craftsmanship is long; it is a dream for a future.” The collection is a beautiful display of simplicity, femininity and classic elegance. The petites mains put a phenomenal amount of working hours— thousands and thousands, into creating an apparently effortless and evanescent designs. With its fascinating exploration of volume and the potential of fabric and cut, the newest couture collection remains faithful to Chiuri’s powerful feminist vision— a designer who attached equal importance to representing the personalities of artisans working in the ateliers who made it, as the exclusive number of women around the world who will be lucky enough to wear it.
The models were a vision of ethereal loveliness. Having in mind what Dior was, and still is, the exquisite style and designed exhibited in Paris are somewhat detached from the sense of eclectic. This may be reason why the fashion world does not fully understand the monotone work, executed to perfection from a technical point of view. However, is this prêt-à-porter or haute couture? The collection certainly lacks magnificence, refinement and the stun factor. It had a touch of elegance, assuredly, and the potential for an amazing artisanal collection. Yet, the undeniably modern, but simple allure of the collection heartily isolates it from what used to be couture at Dior. “What I dream of is an art of balance, of purity and serenity— a soothing, calming influence of the mind”, wrote Henri Matisse. Perhaps, that was what was meant to be achieved.
The color palette includes blush, celery, dusty rose, tea, navy and different shades of nude. Simple to the core, the designs portray a deliberate dryness. Fabrics are matte duchesse, double-faced, crepe, all enhanced with macramé, wood bead embroidery and ribbon embroidery. Maybe the times are changing, and Chiuri wants to escape what is defined as a modern-day couture. Perhaps we are entering a new era where nudes and pastels, executed in simple, sculpted lines, really are the new black? Only time will tell.
Photo credit: Vogue (runway), The Impression (cover)