Bertrand Guyon, creative director of Schiaparelli Paris, inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s love of nature and animals, found a natural habitat at the Paris opera house for presentation of Fall 2018 couture collection. Elsa Schiaparelli herself served as a main inspiration for this unique collection. Guyon was initially drawn by her personal photos, especially her portraits. The designer focused on her character, her identity and personality, her world and intimacy. Through her portraits, her wardrobe and the way she dressed in the daytime and at night, through the accessories she kept on wearing, and her eternal love for animals, Guyon designed an homage to the iconic designer and created what seems to be the ultimate faune et flore of fashion.
Since haute couture is all about immaculate detailing, we witnessed flying butterflies in delicate lace, giant irises in iridescent embroideries, and cheetah embroidery in velvet and golden beads. Many of the looks stood out as a genuine interpretation of what would have been Elsa’s vision today. Sharp tailoring meets dazzling embroideries, masculine tailoring meets feminine draping, all strikingly visible through pieces such as the silhouette no. 2— leopard print, maxi pockets and winged cougar mask designed by Stephen Jones. A shocking pink opera coat is paired with a dragonfly mask, a petal embroidered white gown is worn with a flowerhead.
Guyon offered an array of draped dresses and structured jackets, ivory silk kaftan and tulle gowns. The collection was an ultimate example of wearable art. The designer released his beasts in the parade of Schiaparelli and offered looks filled with animal references. Ounces, deers, flamingos and a dog— all entitled to literal masks, dominate the collection that celebrates exquisite craftsmanship.
Photo credit: Vogue