Last night in Paris, Claire Waight Keller introduced her first Givenchy Haute Couture show for Spring/Summer 2018. Givenchy’s first female artistic director presented garments for both women and men. The iconic French Maison returned to haute couture runway in a parade of pure elegance. From well tailored ensambles to whimsical noir gowns, Givenchy had it all. “I wanted to use the strength of tailoring, but in a feminine way”, stated the designer before presenting the mettle of a woman. Rainbow ruffles, fountains of feathers, men’s made-to-measure and a strict return to the line marked highly anticipated haute couture debut. Soft drapes with well-accentuated silhouettes unveiled the Mystères d’un Jardin de Nuit set up imagined by Keller. The looks, properly entitled as Notocelia, Himère, Satyrion or Alchimiste, announced a mesmerizing take on Givenchy— edgy prettiness.
Some looks, however, highly resembled the works of the former Givenchy creative director, Riccardo Tisci. Upon researching Tisci’s epochal designs, Keller seemed to be most interested in his early works, from the pre-lookbook era. It is as if she wanted to reinvent Tisci’s street glam ready-to-wear collections, with a touch of her own, haute luxury. Without a single suit, Keller succeeded in presenting a new way of power dressing for women. The color black felt more vibrant than ever. Feminine details were kept at a minimum. Red carpet-ready gowns evoked striking glamour. This collection serves as a reminder of just how powerful fashion can be. In these stunning pieces, women do not have to question whether or not they look good because, in Givenchy, they certainly always do.
P. S. In midst of powerful social movements, such as the #TimesUp and #MeToo, it is refreshing and inspiring to see that the casting directors decided to promote diversity on Parisian runways. Givenchy, along with the rest of the haute club, decided to hire models of different ethnicities in an equal scale. That is definitely a first!
Photo credit: Vogue (runway), The Impression (cover)