PFW: Rochas Spring 2018 RTW

Alessandro Dell’Acqua has a story to tell, the one filled with color and opulent fabrics; a story raying haute orientalist vibe with a touch of retro. It is a tale of rebellion, a veto to current state of fashion and pop culture. Last night, at Paris Fashion Week, staged in a dark, red-lit showspace, there was the slightly ominous feeling that Rochas might be taking a turn towards the overwhelming prevalence of street kid clubwear. But, as soon as the first look appeared, it was clear that Dell’Acqua was staying on brand with a collection of couture silhouettes rendered in Japanese fabrics for the modern woman. Embellished attire is in, again. Lavish shades of marigold, scarlet, blue, jade, purple and royal blue radiated off rich jacquard done in Eastern patterns.

 “It’s Oriental in mood because of the material and the shape, but I don’t want the cliché,” Dell’Acqua said backstage.

The designer played with the material, turning the jacquard inside-out, using literal silver lining against the exterior result of the gorgeously woven silk. The shapes resemble haute couture of the 1960’s with the sculptured volumes on satin coats, tiered sculpted ruffles on a black dress, and arch Empire waist of a gown with a neat, colorful bodice with a V-shaped cutout at the bust and tied in a bow at the collar. Rochas girl is not an everyday woman. Her idea of daywear is  an embroidered shirtdress paired with stark black skirt and simple satin flats. She is eccentric and confident, yet comfortable and effortlessly chic. I know Miranda Priestly would disagree, but florals for spring- under Dell’Acqua’s creative guidance- do appear to be groundbreaking.

Photo credit: The Impression