It’s only day two and Paris Fashion Week already has a favorite. Last night, using Eiffel tower as a backdrop, Anthony Vaccarello presented YSL Spring 2018 ready-to-wear collection. Striking silhouettes graced the runway while the glittering tower served as the perfect setting for the iconic show. “I want to tell a story of Saint Laurent, of Paris- nothing more than that”, stated Vaccarello humbly before the show. Inspired by the haute couture Yves Saint Laurent designed back in the 1970’s, Vaccarello pays tribute to French national heroes- both the iconic designer and his business partner Pierre Bergé who passed away just weeks ago. I did not love all of the outfits but the ones I did, I did wholeheartedly. It was a journey from Marrakech to Paris, and things picked up on the way. Vaccarello debuted new incarnation of the sparkling, slouchy knee-high YSL boots from last season- low-cut and suede and introduced the IT boots of the season- over-the-knee, high feathered ones, particularly amazing in black.
“That girl of Saint Laurent—she wants to have fun,” designer said. “She’s not depressed. She wants to enjoy life!”
For the ones old enough to remember fashion history, some of the looks served as a reference to what Saint Laurent was envisioning ahead of the time he was designing for. Ostrich feathers, glitter dresses, duchesse satin are boldly contrasted with tiny shorts and skirts. Floating, billowy-sleeved silk blouses, gold-coin dot printed tulle tops and embroidered sequin dresses serve as a bold statement of leadership and a unique designer vision. Vaccarello envisions brilliance, sexuality and provocation for a new generation of YSL women. He respects the house codes, but introduces his own set of rules. Wearing nothing but a pair of shorts, a bra top, crazy amount of feathers, sky-high stilettos and a giant fluffy blouse, a girl can get away with anything. Since the era of Hedi Slimane, YSL has a stronger, more authoritative attitude. Vaccarello picked up where Slimane left and made a collection of which the late Saint Laurent and Bergé would be proud of- “a tribute to the atelier and to Paris and to that savoir faire”. Parisian chic, indeed.
Photo credit: Vogue