Generali tower in Milan, Zaha Hadid’s twisting skyscraper, served as the perfect location for presentation of Jil Sander RTW Spring 2018 collection. “Lo storto”- the twisted one, embodies the minimalist DNA that ran both in the veins of the famed architect and the haute minimalist, Jil Sander. Lucie and Luke Meier, a husband-and-wife designer duo, have been named creative directors of Jil Sander in April this year. During the fashion week in Milan, they debuted their vision for the brand’s future and proved they have intimate connection and a deep understanding of the brand. While designing their debut collection, they did a deep study of Jil Sander’s work and came to the conclusion that they misremember Sander.
“A lot of the time, the first impression of her is cold, sparse, and hard,” Luke said. “What she did,” Lucie added, “was also feminine, light, and sensual; that was the approach for us.”
So, naturally, genders intertwine, fluidity is a prerequisite, unisex fashion rules the runway and shows minimalism is alive– perhaps more than ever. Shirts are elongated, transformed into shirt-dresses with soft, puffed sleeves and lavish volumes. Proportions are redefined, designer signature remains untouched. In order to amplify visual interest, Meier duo introduces intriguing suits with narrow shoulders and sharp creases on the arms and body. They prove to be masters of craftsmanship, presenting color-blocked knits in the forms of sweaters, dresses and macramé detailing. Serenity. Purity. Sobriety.
The Meiers know fashion. They breathe it, feel it, create it. By introducing less expected items, such as beautifully built coats in curving silhouettes or the boxy jackets and carrot-shaped trousers cropped above the ankle, they enhanced the awe factor of the audience (and fashion lovers live streaming the show around the world). Bravo!
Photo Credit: Vogue (runway photos), The New York Times (cover photo)