NYFW: Calvin Klein Spring 2018

Calvin Klein is a neverending enigma in fashion industry. It is still a mystery how he achieved to revolutionize fashion advertising. Controversial fragrance and denim ads from the early 1990’s gained him worldwide attention, while his newest comments about not approving of Kendall Jenner show that his word is far from the final one nowadays. The fashion world patiently awaited for the Raf Simons’s impending Spring 2018 collection for Calvin Klein and yesterday the verdict has been given- “You can be a sweet dream or a beautiful nightmare…”

“American horror, American dreams,” Simons elaborated. This collection was an American experiment. If you remember, last season he proposed diner uniforms, cowboy boots and denim- naturally. For Spring, Simons proposed layers combined with different art motifs, including Andy Warhol prints of Dennis Hopper circa Easy Rider and a 1971 Sandra Brant. As a bonus, he added cheerleaders and horror movies. Well, I did warn you it was a beautiful nightmare. Blond models strutted down the runway in rubber nightgowns resembling outfits from Carrie. In the spirit of “where there is darkness, there is also light”, Simons evoked lightness with 1950’s couture silhouettes created of the most unusual materials: waterproof nylon used for tents. Color-blocked Western shirts, nylon redos of full-skirted frocks, madcap dresses made from miles of yarn fringe set a new house standard. For men, the designer introduced lean-cut plaid suits that present the chic side of geek. Although the design was innovative, it was still impeccable. However, I cannot help but think that the collection lacks an emotional approach. When Alexander McQueen presented his Hitchcock-themed collection, there were chills! Here, we witnessed an intellectual approach, an alter-reality that serves to marketing more than it does to the consumers.

On the bright side, we witnessed Kaia Gerber‘s runway debut. Her mother, supermodel Cindy Crawford, was a Calvin Klein regular back in the 1990’s. She used to strut her stuff alongside fellow supermodels Christy Turlington and Yasmin Le Bon. Proving that the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, Kaia appeared confident and calm. “CALVIN KLEIN! there are no words to describe how I feel, I love you endlessly Raf!”, young model stated on her Instagram account. To Klein’s satisfaction (and my own), Kendall Jenner missed out on this runway.

Runway photos: Vogue

Cover photo: The New York Times