“Write everything that goes through the window”
Bertrand Guyon maintains true to his fusion of Schiaparelli today with its rich past. To some degree he succeeds, making Elsa-isms noticeable to all the knowledgeable fashion eyes. Guyon’s “Shocking Society” haute couture collection for Fall/Winter 2017/2018 was the first show of Paris Couture Week Day II. It was witty and pretty, with subtle reference to the original designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who died in 1973.
Ethereal, to say the least. There was not too much embellishment and, although it is a haute couture collection, it is made for every woman. Layered, light, sheer dresses in Schiaparelli’s recognizable color pallette almost had a Greek goddess feel. The models moved gracefully, contributing to the elegant vibe Guyon was aiming for. The collection reflects the absolute self-assured femininity. The exquisite refinement of evanescent silhouettes contrasts with dresses seemingly deconstructed that look like abstract compositions. “Elsa Schiaparelli had a circle of inspired and inspiring women revolving around her. Artists, muses and often partners of great artists, these women led enthralling, moderne lives, constantly rebelling against conservatism.” (quoted from the brand’s official press release)
Schiaparelli’s refined and elegant collection presented this Monday morning made everyone (even the live-streamers on Instagram) forget about deceptive weather in Paris. The influence of surrealism was perceptible in each piece- a vinyl jacket with white knit glove inside, a Picasso guitar jacked finished with embroidered musical notes, a gorgeous cubic jumpsuit with a red beaded lobster– Elsa Schiaparelli’s favorite motif. The famous lobster dress, originally created by Schiaparelli in a collaboration with Salvador Dali, was reimagined in glass tubes and beads on the chest of a pair of white leather dungarees. Like the most delicate pieces of artwork, each look had a name, like Dora- a wool look finished with the Cubist face of Picasso’s lover and muse Dora Maar. “It’s my most personal expression of what I think of Schiaparelli,” said Guyon. The signature Schiaparelli heart made its appearance by the end of the show. It was lovingly attached to the back of a sumptuous dress made out of layers of delicate tulle.
The front row was filled with A-list celebrities, such as the loyal Schiaparelli fan Olivia Palermo. With a huge number of red-carpet-ready dresses in beautiful shades of emerald green and mustard yellow, this is the collection to go to for high-end events.
Shocking Society, indeed!
Photo Credit: InDigital (runway), Schiaparelli (Mood board), Vogue (Cover photo)