When Christine Phung designs a new collection for French house Leonard Paris, she brings mathematical couture to the runway. Leonard is a brand that implies innovation when it comes to fabrics, printing techniques and the design itself. For the next fall/winter season, they have chosen to play with marble prints and many different shades and colours. A marble jacquard is richly weaved to give texture and reflection. Soft textiles, such as printed wool or snow-white alpaca, bring sensuality contrasting with the overall rigor of the collection. ‘A young woman is exploring a marble quarry in Carrara, Italy. Around her, purple, blue and red striated rocks form an old-age natural geometry.’ Finding creativity in precision and meticulousness in instinct is at heart of Phung’s creative process. Theme of the collection, wintry crystallization, is best seen in recreation of the brand’s emblem, orchid flower, that is given a winter make over by being ‘trapped in ice’. Ever-expected flowers were dominating this collection, as well. Reworked into multi-colored fur, embroidered, sewn up in luxurious patchwork for an abstract, architectural result, the blossoms form an ideal platform for pieces that are both sharp and spontaneous.
Aside from being gorgeously executed, fitted and elegant, this new collection is primarily functional. As ready-to-wear would suggest, it allows freedom of movement and comfort. It is comprised of sporty blousons, streamlined blazers, flowy flower-print dresses, fur gilets, and desirable trench coats with dotted detailing. The color palette was rather bold, varying from dark purple to bright turquoise, ice to dark blue, burgundy to light pink, black to white. However, even with all the different colours, layers and prints, the collection was perfectly in sync.
The models were additionally accessorized with beautiful fine art jewellery from Jean Grisoni.
HAIR AND MAKE-UP
Make-up artist Karim Rahman worked with L’Oreal Paris to create eye-catching looks for the runway. Focus was on the eyes that were emphasized with the use of bright colours, such as the dark blue one seen in the collection. The eye shadow was used all away through the lid and the crease, extending all the way up to the brow bone. With the use of black eyeliner, lower lash line was additionally emphasized, which resulted with a totally vamp look. Except for mild highlighter in the inner eye corners and cheek bones, the rest was pretty much clear canvas. Lips remained natural.
Delphine Courteille was the hair stylist in charge, who also worked with L’Oreal Professional to create the most interesting hairstyle for the models. The hair was sleek and pulled back in a tight pony tail that was then braided and folded in half. It appeared as a clean hairdo, and did not distract the public from the collection. According to the theme, both make-up and hairstyle appeared sharp, clean and winter-ready.
Photo Credit: Alexander Kozhin, Backstage Fashion Week