If I were to describe the Redemption Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear collection it would be ‘Xena: urban warrior princess meet Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée’. It is a perfect balance between precise, elegant tailoring and military and punk influence, which through years became a synonym for this inspiring brand. An opulent rebellion was the connecting thread of the collection; a ply of contrasts that captures the spirit of the contemporary world, opposing decadence and punk, a refined extravagance with a sense of urban grit. Bebe Moratti, the creative director of the brand, used delicate and intensely worked materials such as brocades, mikado silk, fil coupé and cotton canvas. The color palette used was a rich mix of purples, electric blues, military greens and classic black and white with metallic dashes.
The final result was true to the Redemption ethos- sensual yet full of tension, and elegant with a twist. As stated by Moratti, ‘an idea of aristocratic punk suited for the metropolitan environment arises: a Redemption fashion is a creative act that always maintains an eye on reality.’ The collection was comprised of frock coats, skinny pants and towering heels. Timeless modernity and proud Italian craftsmanship, pillars of the brand, were visible in elegant suits and long, high leg-slit dresses. Biker jackets, blazers and tailored pants are the staples of the Redemption woman, both masculine and feminine, mixing austerity with decorative abandon. It was a fresh breath of fashion rebellion.
‘The clash, for Redemption, is the essence of modern elegance.’
Interestingly, there was a lack of hair and make-up theme. The Redemption team once more represented their unique approach to detailing. Hair was not to be ‘too fashion’, and make-up varied from model to model. The idea of respecting model personalities and keeping them for who they really are is rarely seen in the industry. Make-up artist in charge was Tom Pecheux from the Calliste agency, who modified make-up looks to different skin tones of the models. David Mallet, hair stylist from the Marie-France Thavonekham agency, followed the ‘no theme’ theme by styling the hair differently from model to model. The different personalities and style really showed in the runway, which contributed to this amazing collection and the show itself.
Photo Credit: Alexander Kozhin, Backstage Fashion Week