Details, details, details! This show was such a breath of fresh air. Impeccable embroidery, chic fringe trimming and sublime pearl beading bear resemblance to the early works of François Lesage, the late artist of embroidery and a name behind some of the most memorable YSL, Valentino and Chanel pieces from the late 80’s. Andrew Gn’s is constantly zigzagging between ‘Orient and Occident’ as he claims, but what he is most successful at is straddling high-culture and pop-culture, all with sense of humor and warmth, making him a thoroughly modern original. It is consistently seen in his work, including in this collection, that he knows European classicism as much as he does the 18th century. Some of the pieces seen on today’s runway in Paris appear to be time machines to the past, such as the black gown with beaded white pearls, paired with large scale earrings or the embroidered black blazer and plush fringe-trimmed skirt. Actually, all of the outfits could easily be transported back to 1915 at one of Condé Nast’s famous cocktail parties in his luxurious duplex penthouse at Park Avenue in New York City. It was ready-to-wear, alright. Ready-to-wear at a party, brunch with friends or casual stroll around the city.
Andrew Gn is a well-known craftsman, mastering cutting, draping, tailoring, innovation, details and function. Every detail, from the handmade buttons to the embroideries and the trimmings, was designed and crafted by skilled artisans in the house’s atelier. The entire collection is made in France, which gives an ode to the rising movement of slow fashion. If by slow fashion they mean luxury, quality, transcendence and wearability, than yes- Andrew Gn is all that.
According to the Asia-inspired theme, Karim Rahman, make-up artist in chief, achieved Japanese tribe look, using nothing but his fingers to accentuate the lips with little rouge and gloss on top. As additional inspiration, he used four different shapes of Geisha lips. There was no contouring. Damien Boissinot, who was in charge for styling the hair, opted for braids. The braids were fixed using hair oil products, while some of the braids have been additionally styled with different beads and pearls. Who knew braids and old-world charm could pair so well. Excellent!
Photo Credit: Alexander Kozhin, Backstage Fashion Week