Paris Fashion Week has started and it is the most exciting one this season- the best really does comes last. Last night, in a colonnade of a building (that will soon become the brand’s headquarters), hanging on a crane was the famous Yves Saint Laurent logo. Anthony Vaccarello, Brussels- born designer hired last spring to run the brand’s vision, presented his debut collection for YSL. And, apparently, he has restored the Y in the logo. Fashionistas all over the world were mourning the loss of the Y when his predecessor, Hedi Slimane, decided to re-brand the name to Saint Laurent. Thank you, Anthony!
In the spirit of re-living the past, Vaccarello had the logo molded into signature black heels. His first collection was a true success. He took some classic YSL shapes and toned them down a bit. Necklines, puffy couture sleeves and sleek tuxedos were whittled down to appear more casual. Vaccarello did what was expected of him. Et… Voila! The brand is saved!
“I wanted to have fun. I wanted to have a clin d’oeil—a wink—to Yves Saint Laurent, rather than. . . . He did so many things, I don’t want to repeat the things he has done. It’s not about the garments, my idea of YSL lies in the attitude and how we handle things. There are fabrics like leather, vinyl, velvet, lace, but then they’re put on a girl of today.”, Vaccarello stated for Vogue.
After closing his own line, it is still too early to define Vaccarello’s role in the new YSL era. The job itself is very demanding and much depending on the entire team. He is concentrated on the responsibility of re-imagining whom the YSL girl might be. “She’s certainly not bourgeois or classic”, he stated. “She has a huge respect for Saint Laurent, but not in the first degree. So I thought of her taking a vintage dress and cutting into it.”
Will that be enough, I wonder. Time will tell. So far, I love it!
(photo credit: nymag.com)